From the end of 2022 I started my obsession with overlapping double crochet. And since then I have released my Ferny Pants in March and Ferny Top in June. With this lingerie bottom design, I am now ready to finish this series.
At first, I called this project the Ferny Lingerie. However, when I finished my first prototype of the design, the shell shape of the lingerie reminded me very much of the painting "The Birth of Venus" by Sandro Botticelli. So I decided to name the project after it.
This is a high cut lingerie bottom with a lacey effect. Because of the nature of the overlapping double crochet we are using for this project, each person's crochet tension would drastically vary the height of the work. My advice for dealing with this is to hold the fabric against your body as often as possible while crocheting to check for proper coverage.
Now, if you are ready to get your sexy on, let's put that slip knot on the hook and get the project started!
Materials / Tools
Yarn - any category #0 lace weight yarn. Approximate yardage required as below:
XS 220 | S 235 | M 252 | L 290 | XL 350 | 2XL 370 | 3XL 388 | 4XL 400
Crochet Hook 2.00mm (or any size that meets the gauge)
Yarn needle
Scissors
Tape Measure
Skill Level : Advanced Beginner
Abbreviations (US)
CH - Chain Stitch
DC - Double Crochet
HDC - Half Double Crochet
OV - Overlapping V-stitch
REP - Repeat
SC - Single Crochet
SK - Skip
SL ST - Slip Stitch
SP - Space
ST - Stitch
YO - Yarn Over
Construction of This Pattern
Crotch
Front
Back
Edging and Straps
Gauge 10 x 10 cm
(The CH1 at the beginning of each row doesn’t count as a HDC.)
38ST x 26 Rows
Make a foundation cord of 38 STs.
Row 1: CH1, HDC in the first and second ST. DC in the next ST, CH2, DC in the next ST. *SK2, DC in the next ST, CH2, DC in the next ST. REP from * until 2 ST left. HDC in the last 2 ST. Turn. [4HDC and 9 V-stitches]
* See V-stitch in Pattern Stitch section.
Row 2: CH1, HDC in the first and second ST. Put 1 V-stitch into each CH2 SP until the end. HDC on top of the last 2 HDC from the previous row. Turn. [4HDC and 9 V-stitches]
Row 3: CH1, HDC in the first and second ST. *OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until the end. HDC on top of the last 2 HDC from the previous row. Turn. [4HDC and 9 V-stitches]
* See OV instructions in Pattern Stitch section.
REP from Row 3 until you have in total of 26 Rows.
Size Guide
(All measurements should be taken in CM)
resource: Craft Yarn Council - woman size charts
If your measurements are between sizes, remember that the lingerie is designed to be worn with ties, so the fit is very easy to adjust. All you have to do is choose the coverage you want to determine which size you are going to follow.
Follow the color of the sizes in the chart when working with pattern instructions. The pattern is shown in size XS.
Pattern Stitch
1-1. V-stitch
The V-stitch we are using in this pattern is (DC, CH2, DC).
1-2. Overlapping V-stitch
Step 1. YO, insert the hook into the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. (pictures 2-1 and 2-2)
Step 2. Make a V-stitch (DC, CH2, DC) across two rows in the same CH2 SP (picture 2-3).
When making the DCs, wrap around both CH SP from the previous 2 rows and draw up the 1st. loop a bit taller than normal (picture 2-4).
It could be a bit tricky to find the insertion point at the beginning, but once you get the hang of it, the result is well worth the effort.
When working on this stitch, pay attention to not pick up other strands by mistake. It often happens when you feel that the CH SP you’ve inserted into is a bit stiff. Turn your work to check the opposite side to make sure everything looks correct.
Pattern Instructions
(The beginning CH does not count as a ST, unless noted otherwise.)
Crotch
Leave a yarn tail about 20cm / 8” long and begin to make a foundation cord of 16 (16, 20, 20, 24, 24, 28, 28) STs and turn.
* For the stitch count at the end of each row, we will show in brackets the 2HDC from the beginning and the end of the row with the number of V-stitches / OV in between.
Row 1: CH1, HDC in the first ST. DC in the next ST, CH2, DC in the next ST. *SK2, DC in the next ST, CH2, DC in the next ST. REP from * 3 other times. HDC in the last ST. Turn. [2HDC, 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) V-stitches]
Row 2: CH1, HDC in the first ST. Put 1 V-stitch into each CH2 SP until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) OV]
Row 3: CH1, HDC in the first ST. *OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) OV]
Row 4 to Row 11 (11, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10) : REP Row 3. [2HDC, 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) OV]
* DO NOT cut the yarn, continue to the next section.
Front
Row 1 : CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below and CH1. *OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until there is 1 OV left. CH1, OV in the last CH2 SP from 2 rows below. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) OV]
Row 2 and Row 3 : CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below and CH2. *OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until there is 1 OV left. CH2, OV in the last CH2 SP from 2 rows below. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) OV]
* In the next row we start our OV increase.
Row 4 : CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. DC in the first CH of the CH2 from 2 rows below, CH2, DC in the second CH of the CH2 from 2 rows below (see picture 1 and 2). *OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until there is 1 OV left. DC in the first CH of the CH2 from 2 rows below, CH2, DC in the second CH of the CH2 from 2 rows below. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) OV]
Row 5 : CH1, HDC in the first ST. *OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) OV]
For size M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL and 4XL:
Row 6 to Row 10, 10, 15, 15, 20, 20 : REP from Row 1 to Row 5 (1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) more times. After Row 10, 10, 15, 15, 20, 20 you should have in total (9, 9, 12, 12, 15, 15) OVs.
For all sizes:
Row 6 (6, 11, 11, 16, 16, 21, 21) to Row 9 (9, 14, 14, 19, 19, 24, 24): CH1, HDC in the first ST. *OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 6 (6, 9, 9, 12, 12, 15, 15) OV]
* From the next row we will add CH SP(s) between the OVs. I suggest putting a ST maker in each first row of the section (see picture 3 ↑) to help you keep track of your rows.
Row 10 (10, 15, 15, 20, 20, 25, 25) to Row 16 (17, 22, 22, 27, 27, 32, 32): CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below *CH1, OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 6(6, 9, 9, 12, 12, 15, 15) OV]
Row 17 (18, 23, 23, 28, 28, 33, 33) to Row 23 (25, 30, 30, 35, 35, 40, 40): CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below *CH2, OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from* until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 6 (6, 9, 9, 12, 12, 15, 15) OV]
Row 24 (26, 31, 31, 36, 36, 41, 41) to Row 30 (33, 38, 38, 43, 43, 48, 48): CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below *CH3, OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from* until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 6 (6, 9, 9, 12, 12, 15, 15) OV]
Row 31 (34, 39, 39, 44, 44, 49, 49) to Row 37 (41, 45, 45, 51, 51, 56, 56): CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below *CH4, OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from* until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 6 (6, 9, 9, 12, 12, 15, 15) OV]
Row 38 (42, 46, 46, 52, 52, 57, 57) to Row 42 (46, 50, 50, 56, 56, 61, 61): CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below *CH5, OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from* until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 6 (6, 9, 9, 12, 12, 15, 15) OV]
Row 43 (47, 51, 51, 57, 57, 62, 62) to Row 47 (51, 55, 55, 61, 61, 66, 66): CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below *CH6, OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from* until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 6 (6, 9, 9, 12, 12, 15, 15) OV]
Size XS, S and M : CH1, cut the yarn and fasten off. Continue to make the Back section.
Row 56, 62, 62, 67, 67 to Row 58, 64, 64, 69, 70: CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below *CH7, OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, (9, 12, 12, 15, 15) OV]
Size L and XL : CH1, cut the yarn and fasten off. Continue to make the Back section.
Row 65, 70, 71 to Row 66, 71, 73 : CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below *CH8, OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, (12, 15, 15) OV]
CH1, cut the yarn and fasten off.
Back
Reattach the yarn in the first foundation cord ST just made (see picture 4 ↓).
Row 1: CH1, HDC in the first ST. DC in the next ST, CH2, DC in the next ST. *SK2, DC in the next ST, CH2, DC in the next ST. REP from * 3 other times. HDC in the last ST. Turn. [2HDC, 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) V-stitches]
* Here in row 1, we are placing the ST in exactly the same position as the first row for the front (see picture 5 ↓).
Row 2: CH1, HDC in the first ST. V-stitch in the CH2 SP and CH1. V-stitch in each of the next 2 CH2 SP. CH1, V-stitch in the last CH2 SP. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) V-stitches]
Row 3 and Row 4: CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below and CH2. *OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until there is 1 OV left. CH2, OV in the last CH2 SP from 2 rows below. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) OV]
* In the next row we start our OV increase.
Row 5: CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. DC in the first CH of the CH2 from 2 rows below, CH2, DC in the second CH of the CH2 from 2 rows below (see picture 1 and 2 in the Front section). *OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until there is 1 OV left. DC in the first CH of the CH2 from 2 rows below, CH2, DC in the second CH of the CH2 from 2 rows below. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) OV]
Row 6: CH1, HDC in the first ST. *OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) OV]
Row 7: CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below and CH1. *OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until there is 1 OV left. CH1, OV in the last CH2 SP from 2 rows below. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) OV]
For size XS, S and M:
Row 8 to Row 10: REP from Row 3 to Row 5. [2HDC, 8 (8, 9) OV]
For size L, XL, 2XL, 3XL and 4XL:
Row 8 to Row 15, 15, 20, 20, 25: REP from Row 3 to Row 7 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4) more times to have in total (11, 12, 14, 15, 17) OVs. Finish the last set of the repeat in Row 5.
For all sizes:
Row 11 (11, 11, 16, 16, 21, 21, 26) to Row 14 (14, 14, 19, 19, 24, 24, 29): CH1, HDC in the first ST. *OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 8 (8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17) OV]
Row 15 (15, 15, 20, 20, 25, 25, 30) to Row 19 (20, 20, 25, 26, 31, 31, 36): CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below *CH1, OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from* until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 8 (8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17) OV]
Row 20 (21, 21, 26, 27, 32, 32, 37) to Row 24 (26, 26, 31, 33, 38, 38, 43): CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below *CH2, OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 8 (8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17) OV]
Row 25 (27, 27, 32, 34, 39, 39, 44) to Row 29 (32, 32, 37, 40, 45, 45, 50): CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below *CH3, OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 8 (8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17) OV]
Row 30 (33, 33, 38, 41, 46, 46, 51) to Row 34 (38, 38, 42, 47, 52, 52, 57): CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below *CH4, OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from* until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 8 (8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17) OV]
Row 35 (39, 39, 43, 48, 53, 53, 58) to Row 38 (42, 42, 47, 53, 56, 58, 62): CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below *CH5, OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 8 (8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17) OV]
Row 39 (43, 43, 48, 54, 57, 59, 63) to Row 41 (45, 46, 51, 57, 59, 62, 66): CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below *CH6, OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from* until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 8 (8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17) OV]
Row 42 (46, 47, 52, 58, 60, 63, 67) to Row 44 (48, 49, 54, 60, 62, 66, 69): CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below *CH7, OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 8 (8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17) OV]
Row 45 (49, 50, 55, 61, 63, 67, 70) to Row 46 (50, 51, 57, 62, 64, 69, 72): CH1, HDC in the first ST. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below *CH8, OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. REP from * until the end. HDC on top of the HDC from the previous row. Turn. [2HDC, 8 (8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17) OV]
DO NOT fasten off.
Edging and Straps
Step 1 (first strap): CH the preferable number for your straps. I made mine with 340 CHs to have my lingerie bottom tie in the criss-cross way around my waist (see picture 6). Make a shorter CH (I made 100 CHs) if you prefer to have the classic side-tie style (see picture 7).
Turn your work (add a bead at the end of the strap if you prefer) and SL-ST in each CH back to the main panel.
Step 2: SL-ST on top of the HDC (see picture 8). *OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. SL-ST in the next 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8) CHs. REP from * until 1 OV left. OV in the CH2 SP from 2 rows below. SL-ST on top of the HDC.
Step 3 (second strap): Make a CH of same number and turn. SL-ST in each CH back to the main panel.
Step 4: SC in the side of the HDC back in the main panel (see picture 9). SC along the side of your work evenly.
* I generally put 5SC in every 4HDC rows. But this depends a lot on your crochet tension. It’s going to affect drastically the final look of your project. So be patient and open to giving it a few tries to find the best result for your work.
* Keep putting SC along the side of your work until reaching the first corner of the front panel.
Step 5 to Step 8: REP from Step 1 to 4. I CH 150 instead of 340 for the front strap to avoid having too many straps going on on the body.
* At the end of step 8, you should be back to the point where we started the first strap. SL-ST to the side of the first CH to close the round.
CH1, cut the yarn and fasten off.
I highly recommend sewing a lining for your work especially in the crotch part. This will provide better coverage and comfort for your handmade lingerie.
Weave in the yarn ends and your lingerie bottom is done. ☺
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